Hiking
The Calder Valley, The Rochdale Canal & The Calder & Hebble Navigation.
Now thinking about this I’d thought originally about titling this post something about Hebden Bridge, but that would have been quite misleading. I probably did step foot in HB, but the station if you’ve never been is on the outskirts and so on this occasion I didn’t venture into the town. I digress, though it’s a great town if you’ve never been and you absolutely should.
Onwards, I’d decided almost at the last minute to change this walk and do it the opposite way around, and so I parked in Brighouse, and hopped the train to Hebden Bridge via Halifax. Usually there would appear to be regular direct trains however, Sunday services, UK train services, and all kinds of work meant via Halifax it would have to be.
It was already after 10am by the time I left the station thanks to the delayed trains. That said, I was soon out of the station and heading for the tow path, which for me was a few minutes walk from the station, and there were all manner of colourful what looked more like house boats than plain barges. They lined the Rochdale canal, most of the way to the Fallingroyd Tunnel, at which point you must leave the waters edge and cross the road to rejoin the tow path. Before crossing you’ll pass a sign simply stating that was so Hebden Bridge.
You pass your first set of locks and a number of bridges as you pass the village of Mytholmroyd. It’s funny though because having driven down their valley so many times for various reasons I’d never seen this side of the village before. A theme which would continue throughout this walk. You’ll pass the sculpture of the hawk which was inspired by the Ted Hughes poem Hawk Roosting, and similarly the nearby area of Hawksclough.
Ted Hughes a former Poet Laureate (1984), was born in the village.
The waterway continues along the valley, passing under more bridges and switching back to the right hand side of the road before twisting away. At the time I did this walk willow trees provided a canopy over stretches of the path, as the autumnal colours washed over the tress on the banks of both sides of the water. Mushrooms sprouting sporadically on patches of earth rising to meet the bridges.
Something of interest I noticed was the series of short fingerposts between Sowerby and Hebden Bridge, marked by the Canal Trust, I think there were Five posts in total, at least that I saw anyway.
You’ll pass through the smaller village of Luddenden Foot, an area I have an interest in as I have a fair amount of family history in the area, and lots of memories from my childhood. As you pass under one of the bridges, artwork by Joss Smith, Fender, Pool & Splice quickly appears on the right hand side. Geese a plenty doing their best to mark out their territory.
I’d noticed also up to this point the boundary stones of the Rochdale Canal Company Land, at least thats my perception of them. This seems to be backed up looking at articles online.
You’ll soon pass the now empty Denholme Mill, on the far side of the canal. It’ rises high above the water after the waterside houses which precede it on the same side. I know it used to be utilised in retail, as an outdoors shop – but otherwise I haven’t been able to find a great deal out about this old mill.
From here the canal quietens as it makes its way towards the village of friendly. Pleasant as the trees provide a multi coloured canopy above your head. More bridges and fingerposts you will pass, and a tunnel as you make your way down the canal and to the locks at Sowerby Bridge.
At this point you’re essentially forced away from the tow path, though I’d followed it as closely as I could to the locks, and whilst there are tempting bars and pubs, I made my way across to Sowerby Bridge Wharf to where you can rejoin the canal side and continue on your way towards Copley.
This was perhaps the stretch I was most curious about when planning the walk. The basin was full of moored boats, but I made my way past and was soon walking through Copley, and making my way once again under a canopy of colour. Copley viaduct soon followed, and it wasn’t long before I found myself at Salterhebble locks. My gran lived at Skircoat Green for many years and so I’m no stranger to Salterhebble. I’d never seen it from this perspective though, always zipping by along the road.
At Salterhebble locks the Rochdale Canal becomes the Calder & Hebble Navigation, but also there is a shorter stretch of canal which branches towards Halifax. It’s a dead end however so craft can only return along the same stretch of water. It doesn’t look like many of the locks are in use and the tow path doesn’t follow the waterway all the way either.
One of the most unique items around the Salterhebble junction is the guillotine locks, which unto this point I’ve not seen before. I didn’t get to see anything going through either. This is also another point on the walk where I was forced away from the water due to building work taking place on the adjacent land. Via a detour I rejoined the canal around 1/4 of a mile downstream.From re-joining the canal there was a short section where people just seemed to come from nowhere – it had been so quiet. It doesn’t take long to reach the next set of locks on the outskirts of Elland, and again I was forced away from the water due to flood damaged.
At this point it took some time to rejoin the canal in the middle of Elland, but again once I did it was amazing to see this part of the world from a totally different perspective. I’ve driven down the roadside so many times. The canal winds its way through the woodland, under more modern bridges and the path criss crosses the waterway and past the Cromwell Bottom nature reserve. I didn’t have time (and my legs didn’t have the juice left in them) to spare the time here.
I was flagging and I knew it at this point, and I was so happy to see the climbing building as I walked into Brighouse. I stuck to the canal side though all the way to the basin.
What did I learn on this walk. I learned that even feeling under the weather I could still chalk up almost Thirteen miles. Above all else I learned that many of the areas I spent time as a child, or grew up around have so many different perspectives. The calder valley is awash with history and tradition and in the push to modernise I desperately hope that it doesn’t get lost to time, and consigned to the history books. Most of the mills have either been converted now to living spaces – or stand crumbling.
The canal & river trust do some amazing work, and I see their teams regularly near home, on the Huddersfield Narrow Canal.
What’s next, well I have some plans to walk from Littleborough to Hebden Bridge, I’d like to walk the Broad Canal to Mirfield, and also walk the stretch to Brighouse along the Calder and Pebble Navigation. So I’d imagine there are three walks to be done over the colder months.
Marsden: Short Walks 1 & 2
As these first two routes are short walks from the centre of Marsden I’ll combine them into one post. Marsden is such a brilliant jump off point for short, medium and long walks, it really does have it all.
Walk 1. Nature Reserve & Packhorse Bridge
The first two walks start in Marsden, really wherever you want to park, because of where you will be walking, the ideal spot would be in the NT Car Park at the top side of the village. From here you simply follow the canal footpath out past the train station and underneath the bridge. A short way beyond the woodland opens up on the left hand side and you can amble your way through. Usually I’ve seen grey squirrels hopping amongst the trees, even the occasional woodpecker.
There are places to sit and an interesting sheep sculpture deep within the woods, before you must drop back down to the canal side and around to the visitors centre.
If you have the time the trip into the tunnel on one of the canal boats is a really good experience, something I’ve done a couple of times with my daughter.
The cafe is great, some superb food, and well worth taking a breather before continuing your walk.
Continuing to the right of the visitors centre and up the grassy banking on your left will bring you to Tunnel End reservoir. It’s here where the nature reserve begins, and has paths going in all manner of directions. This is a brilliant spot to come in the spring time when you are likely to see Swans and their offspring, again squirrels, and if you time it right maybe the odd fox.
Your path through the reserve is easy to follow, and will have you rejoin the road at it’s end, from here follow the road to the left, passing by the old generator site at Hey Green (marked by a blue plaque). Continue on the road until you reach a path off to the left between a wall on your right, and the river on your left.
All you need do now is follow this path and it will bring you to the Packhorse Bridge. If you choose to follow the packhorse road out onto Marsden Moor, I will describe these in more detail on another post.
Your route back to Marsden can either follow the way you came, or alternatively you can follow the road back to the car park.
Walk 2. Butterley Reservoir & Bank Bottom Mill (Marsden Mill).
The first thing I would say is as a general rule I park by the football ground whenever I’m walking out of the Wessenden side of village. Also that generally I don’t do many shorter walks from Marsden anymore.
From your starting point you will need to make your way to the Wessenden side of the valley, and I’d also add that this walk can be done in either direction. Generally I make my way up Binn Rd, as it’s a little easier on the legs than the steps which climb next to the spillway.
The road is short, but it does climb suddenly and you’ll walk past the mill on your right as you climb the hill. It does level out quite soon on this walk as you approach the junction. The road carries on to a small parking area, though before you decide to go and park there it’s a narrow road all the way to the top and accepts about 4 cars. The rough trail straight in front of you is the most direct route up the valley to Wessenden Head if you want a longer walk. Likewise you can extend this walk by walking along a little further also.
It should be noted that there is no easy circular of Butterley reservoir.
When you’re ready to return you have a couple of options, at the top of the hill you’ve just walked up, there was a set of steps on your right hand side, you can take this set of steps or you can cross the path over the spillway to the far end, and take the steps down on that side.
This brings you back down to the same point, a lane which winds it’s way through the middle of the now long since abandoned mill. Personally I would love to explore the insides of the mill, but somehow doubt permission would be granted on safety grounds.
From this point you will walk back out to the car hopefully via one of the many delicious eateries in the village!
These are just a couple of shorter walks from Marsden, I hope to add to these walks quite quickly and at some point will add some pictures to go along with them.
Route Planning
Route planning is not really something until a couple of years ago I’d thought a great deal about. Why would I? Most of the walking I did was with friends who did all of that sort of thing, so why do I need to worry about it.
Well over the last couple of years, I’ve taken to venturing out on the moors, and onto the higher tops of both the Peak and the Lake District national parks. As such, Route planning has become an exciting part of the adventure.
Now whilst there are people and indeed times that walking out without a plan fits, thinking about times where daylight hours may not be there in an abundance, or you may not have phone signal. So what happens if you get into a pickle – and nobody knows where you are – or where you were walking from and to.
So for me I generally have a rough idea as to my start and finish points, the route I’m taking and let a couple of people know where I’m going. I tend to check in when I can also so my progress is known as the day progresses. So let’s talk about my own personal methods – as I know it won’t be a one size fits all approach. There are all sorts of apps, and web sites which can be used but personally I will always have a look at an OS map, and as a rule of thumb I use the explorer maps. I parallel this with an approximate mapping using the OS website. This gives me an indicator as to time and distance.
Personally I love looking at maps, and could spend so much time looking at it, and wandering down various routes. This is great when the weather is rubbish outside when I’m at home. Likewise if I’m away for a couple of days and the weather changes I can also plan on the fly whilst at the hostel etc.
Another big advantage of checking out a map beforehand is you may find waterfalls or other such sites of interest and find that your route can be adapted to visit. From experience this beats finding out after your walk has finished. Don’t get me wrong I still spend at least an hour before I pack away the map when I get home.
Over the last couple of years there have been various different points of interest which I’ve learned about thanks to the various people on twitter who have been massively helpful whenever asked about routes and hills.
So what do you want to see along your Bimble, benchmarks? Trig Points? Waterfalls? Locks? Packhorse Bridges? use them to plan your route next time you’re plotting. The OS site has great resources most of the time you can add a filter to show you where some of these things are.
Marsden: Gateway to Marsden Moor
Around Two years ago, I decided that I wanted to get fitter, and try and lose some weight and so I decided a good way to do this was to walk more. Above all else like many, my mental health was taking a battering from staying at home all the time.
As mentioned in my last post, I live in the Colne Valley and so there are a plethora of route options which to explore. One of my favourite start points is the village of Marsden, which sits nestled at the foot of a number of hills, most of which make up the National Trust managed Marsden Moor.
The village itself is popular amongst families, walkers, drinkers, and music fans all for a variety of reasons. Much like Slaithwaite (Slawit), it has it’s share of cafes and pubs and a good used book shop on the high street.
So I generally drive to Marsden and either leave my car near the football ground, or in the NT car park near the canal on the opposite side of the valley. From here the world really is your oyster. Again generally my routes are 8-10 mile walks, but there are shorter options too. From the village it’s only a 15-20 minute walk out through the woods by the canal to the Standedge Visitors Centre. From memory it’s around 1.5 miles one way. There is also a nature reserve just beyond the Visitors Centre which is well worth the short walk.
The Wessenden Valley is one of my favourite areas, and easy to navigate and again comes with options. You’ll need to leave the village on the southern side, closest to the football ground, and climb out of the valley following the signposts. Making your way up you have a couple of logical routes. You can walk through the grounds of the old mill or follow the road up, the latter being the easier. You will arrive at butterley spillway and reservoir.
The better way for those unfamiliar to the area is to simply follow the main track all the way (or as far as you wish to go) to Wessenden Head. From here you have spectacular views across the moors and down the valley.
This route will also take you past Blakeley and Wessenden reservoirs. It’s a steady climb up and give you a real indicator of the industrial past in certain areas. You can divert away from the main track at various places, and there are multiple circular route options, not all of which are on the maps. There are a couple of very good hidden waterfalls if you can find them, and a number of smaller cascades which are more visible from the main trail.
Ill try to write up some of my favourite routes following on from publishing this post as I try to spend more time writing about the local area.
What to do after you complete your walk? Bad Buns, sandwiches, cakes or local beers are all readily available In the village. One of my favourite spots though is Crumbles.
Helvellyn & Chasing Wainwrights
I chose to stay at a hostel I’d stayed at previously. It’s cosy, with a small bar, but it ticks off all the boxes after a day on the fells. They serve food and have all of the facilities which you’d likely need after a days walking. The only downside is the size of the drying room – but that said the heating system runs through the rooms, with big old radiators, and big pipes – so you won’t have too many issues drying kit :-).
I’d booked a couple of nights to allow me a good nights rest the night before and somewhere to stay the night I finished without having to wait to check in, and also knowing when I was done, I could get back, have a shower, rest and get a good meal without going back out again.
The weather was forecast to be good, but I had expected it to be colder than it actually was. I started out with a t-shirt, and a fleece, and that was essentially how I stayed for the duration for the duration of the walk.
I left the hostel just after 9am, with the sun shining over Place Fell, blue skies as far as the eye could see, and the not too distant rumble of jets entering the Ullswater area.
My route was in the initial sense, part I’d walked previously, up through the mines and on the left side of Swart Beck, which rumbled down the valley and into the river below. I’d come this way a couple of years ago on the way up to Sheffield Pike, somewhere I wasn’t going to revisit due to time constraints.
As far as weather goes, given it was an October day, I couldn’t have wished for better. I had opted to aim for Hart Side (756m), as my first top of the day. We’ll not mention the height the hostel is located at – only it makes the climb a little easier. I didn’t hang around, and turned around and made my way back towards White Stones/Green Side – again more impressive were the views over Sheffield Pike and the fells beyond.
I pushed on as time was ticking and I had much to take in, the next hill was Stybarrow Dodd (843m). I had initially hoped to tick off Great Dodd and Watsons Dodd, but made the decision to miss them both out and focus on Nethermost and Dollywaggon instead. Stybarrow felt a bit of a slog to get up, but then this was the second real push to get up and over after the climb up from the hostel.
Once on top, I was treated to some incredible views towards Skiddaw, Blencathra and the fells in the west. The distant rumble of jets taking in views of Derwentwater at close proximity. The next hill in line was Raise (883m) which itself involved a bit of a climb following the descent from Stybarrow and the crossing of Sticks Pass. The views definitely didn’t get any worse either as I continued, now with visuals of Thirlmere in the valley below.
I took five on the top of Raise admiring the views and taking on some energy. I probably could have been better hydrated coming into the weeks trip, but it is, what it is. I was a little surprised at just how busy it was on the top. It was a Wednesday, I noticed more and more people the closer I got to Helvellyn.
After a short break I ticked of White Side (863m), and continued my ascent of Lower Man (925m). These two fells offered the best views of Catstye Cam and Swirral Edge. I was surprised at how steep and relatively narrow Lower Man was. Don’t get me wrong it wasn’t anything like the edges but it’s a rough path which goes up at quite an angle. Once on top the plateau opens up to your left and you are 25m from the main event.
Helvellyn (950m) Didn’t disappoint. the views from the summit were impressive, far reaching, and rewarding for the slog which I’d gone through during the morning. That said, I knew I had to come back through this way, and had already made the decision that I wanted to bag Nethermost and Dollywaggon Pike(s), with High Crag sandwiched in between.
Nethermost (891m) was first on the list, a short descent and ridiculous views across to the latter stages of Striding edge. I moved on the short distance to High Crag as it was on the direct route to Dollywaggon, though it’s not a Wainwright. Dollywaggon (858m) was a bit of an effort if I’m honest, and I think it’s because I knew I had to turn around and walk back the way I’d come already. Still it’s done, and I don’t “have” to go back up that way unless I really want to.
The walk back up to the summit was pleasant enough – but the wind had definitely picked up. A slight chill came through and the clouds were starting to move through from the West. I knew what would eventually come, so wanted to get down off the tops.
Having ticked off Helvellyn & Nethermost, I’d ticked off two more of the Lakeland top 10 highest Fells. I wanted to tick off Catstye Cam, and that would mean I’d then have done Eight of the top Ten. It also meant taking on Swirral Edge. I returned to the summit, and grabbed a few pictures before making my way to the top of Swirral Edge.
To be clear, I don’t like heights (yes I know, why walk up really high hills/mountains then), but I also want to challenge myself. The top of Swirral Edge wasn’t really too bad, but it’s the not knowing, which side to try and come down which gets you. When I set off down, I checked the time to see how long it took me to descend. 25 minutes, I’m quite sure is a long time, but at the same time I don’t really care. I got down safely which ultimately counts more.
I set off down, and there was nobody in front of me, by the time I finished I’d lost count of the number of people who had passed me. Quite funny seeing these people fly down as if it were no big deal.
Still after a few photo stops along the way I made it safely down, as the clouds gathered over the summit of Helvellyn. I knew I was running low on fluids, so got my head down and made my way across to Catstye Cam (890m). I did take pictures, but I also could tell my enthusiasm was waning. I still needed to get down, and across to Birkhouse Moor. Thankfully I had one last trick up my sleeve.
As I made my way down from Catstye Cam and across to Red Tarn, I pulled out the big guns, the haribo, to power through one last push across to Birkhouse Moor (718m). Now in hindsight I believe there was a steepish path coming off the front of the hill. I however had opted to double back to Red Tarn. No real complaints as the cascades coming down the valley were pretty impressive, but I did possibly come down a slightly longer way as a result.
By the end of the day my legs were done, I needed refreshments, food and a good shower. But what a way to finish the trip to the lakes. I can’t wait for the spring and to get back up there.
Overall I pretty much maxed out what I could do with the amount of daylight hours. Had I added in the other two Dodds, then I would have had to sacrifice something else within the walk, most likely Swirral Edge/Catstye Cam. Which would have potentially presented other issues, notably daylight. So I think I made the right calls.
It was great to tick off Three more of the top Ten highest lakeland fells on one walk, and in particular great to tick off Helvellyn and one of the edges. Likewise to do Helvellyn and Skiddaw on this trip was brilliant, and it was great to see where I was in terms of fitness. I think had the weather been better I could potentially have don 30-40 miles on the trip easily. Twenty Five was a good return though so I can’t complain.
Until next time though……Enjoy the pictures.
October 2021, A return to the Lake District
So if you read my most recent post, you will have seen I’d stayed away from the Lakes, even when we could go. I suspected that it would be carnage up there, though there are always hills to climb in quieter areas.
I opted to wait until Autumn for various reasons, and roll the dice with the weather. My plans chopped and changed multiple times, right up until the week before with the weather changing so much. I left home early on the Monday morning hoping that I’d catch a bit of a break with the weather. It didn’t really happen, and as I was staying in Keswick I had intended on walking up Skiddaw to tick another of the Lakes top Ten highest fells off the list.
After much input from various people I decided to leave the Ullock Pike/Carl Side ascent for a better weather day. I’m not the most confident navigator so I opted for the safety of the pony track route up. A simple, yet steep route up.
I decided to leave my car in Keswick, near the hostel, and take a route over Lattrigg first. Having left the car with a waterproof coat on, I opted to add waterproof trousers when I topped Lattrigg. I took the route via the woodland trail which zig zags through. Lucky for me I saw a young roe deer through the trees. I will add in here there is an area of heavy deforestation, and area which I’m told will be replaced. This in turn means many of the paths have gone, so you end up picking your way through what was woodland.
Once you manage to get to the top, I struggled to find a stile or gate, therefore ended up hopping a fence. I’m sure they are there but I couldn’t see it. Your alternative would be to follow the Cumbria Way, though that would mean lengthening the walk up Lattrigg. I’d imagine the views on a good day – or even a dry day – are amazing. For me, it was decent, and the way the light shifted across the lakes and the valleys was impressive enough.
Once on Lattrigg, I added another layer and headed down, to the start of the track for Skiddaw. You are straight into it, a steep zig zagging loose stone path.
You should have Lonscale fell on your right and the distant views over Derwentwater and Keswick. Again with the weather blowing through I did get the occasional stunning landscape but overall it was a wet one, definitely a head down and get up and bag the tops.
Luckily I seemed to be sheltered from the wind on the way up, as if not the wind and rain would have made the day a total chore. I had hoped that there would be more breaks in the weather but it wasn’t to be.
The first top was Skiddaw Little Man, with the views nondescript at best I opted to keep going. Nothing to see at all so I pushed on knowing there was only a slight descent before another push to the main event. Skiddaw summit is home to a trig, and also a post with a guide to the surrounding fells. Good because I think the wind cleared the views for about 15 seconds to see the far side of Bassenthwaite and the lower fells.
Even with the layers I had on, I started to get cold very quickly. I grabbed my sandwiches from my bag, put on my gloves, and began the descent back the way I had come up. Again I consider the descent down Carl Side but with the visibility so poor, I didn’t want to chance it – so opted to use the same route back down.
I soon got out of the wind, and the breaks in the cloud became more frequent. Indeed when I reached the town again, wouldn’t you know it the clouds cleared totally for a time to reveal the stunning views of the Skiddaw range. Sods law really.
I’ll definitely do Skiddaw again, as I need to do some of the other fells for the Wainwright bagging. Ullock Pike, Carl Side, Long Side, and Lonscale fell are all on that list. Something for the spring I think. Hopefully I can find a way out via bus or something, and then come back via Lonscale and the Cumbria Way.
Overall, it’s not as bad a walk as some would have you believe. Super easy in terms of finding your way. I generally always have a map and compass in my bag. But always use GPS alongside it. It wasn’t a great day weather wise, but it was October. You roll the dice.
Would I do it again? Yes. Any lessons learned? Possibly I could/should have included Lonscale Fell but it’s no hardship that I didn’t.
Goals:
Three more Wainwrights ticked off.
One more of the top 10 Lakeland Fells ticked off.
Through the 700 mile (Measured) mark for the year.
Winter is coming
Can you believe it? 2022 is on it’s way, and it will be here before we know it! I’m looking back on the last 12 months and beyond and can’t believe we are where we are.
Let’s look at this from a personal perspective, and the challenges I set myself at the start of this year. I’ve managed to drop a few pounds, and keep most of it off – thankfully. In terms of goals, I’ve managed to rack up over 700 miles (measured). So I’m hoping that I’ll comfortably surpass 800. That in turn gives me a target to beat next year.
Following a few days in the lakes last week, I’ve managed to notch 8/10 highest lakeland fells now. Not all last week I should add, but topping Helvellyn, Skiddaw, Nethermost Pike & Catstye Cam took the total to 8. I can now plan in the spring to round out the remaining two, Pillar & Great End. The other thing I’ve managed to do is take my Wainwright total to 40/214, which whilst being respectable I’d hope to at least double that next year.
I subconsciously started bagging wainwrights in 2012 but never made more than One or Two trips to the lakes. Additionally, uptown last week I’d not been since March 2020! So obviously I now want to change that and start hammering away at the list next year.
What else? If you read any of my previous blog posts, you’ll know that I closed down my Facebook account. I felt that it did more harm than good to my mental health and I’ve stayed off it. Don’t miss it, in fact a combination of that and exposure to the outside has made such a difference to my mental health.
I’ve never really been bothered about Winter before, but I’m dreading it a bit this year, and I don’t really know why. The lack of daylight in the evening, the shorter days etc. I know there are probably loads of people out there who struggle with the same issues.
We’re going away at the end of the month, hopefully grab another couple of Wainwrights, Binsey & Dodd, whilst staying at a cottage in North Cumbria. When we return I’m hoping to have a go at Bouldering, at Freeklime a local indoor centre. Hopefully it’s good, and it’s something to get me through the winter months.
I’ve been terrible at writing this year (sounds familiar) so I’ll keep this short, and hopefully I can write little and often going forwards.
Peace.
The Robinson Circular, Lake District.
At the start of the month I made a much-anticipated return trip up the M6 to the North Lakes. I had some annual leave to use up, and given the fact It had been a number of months since the last trip up to Ullswater, there are always more hills to bag.
I was aware the conditions were still very much wintery, and as such I’d decided to aim for something around the 700m height. As we were basing ourselves in Keswick it gave us plenty of options.
The week before I got the map out and noted a route which I had looked at previously which started and finished in or near Little Town.
I plotted the route to take in Dale Head and Robinson, which was modified slightly at Gary’s suggestion to take in Hindscarth also. The intention initially was to take the route in clockwise.
When we reached our start point, we decided to take the route in anti-clockwise as it meant starting without the initial double back.
Having done the route now I would recommend doing it the same way. It’s a steady ascent, which starts off on a narrow lane, and continues up past Newlands church and a turn off to High Snab Farm.
We made a slight error in our route following the footpath up the valley instead of turning and making our way up to the ridge.
With snow on the ground it made the climb out of the valley a little more time consuming when we corrected the route.
Nevertheless, we continued on the path up to the small tarn, before the trail climbed steeply. We reached the opening, and checked the map, and this is where we corrected our route. Further ascent up to the plateau through the snow. It took about half an hour for this route correction in part due to fitness and in part due to the snow.
Once we were on the top it was fairly steady going, with all of the ascent out of the way, and a walk over to the summit of Robinson. From here you have great views towards Haystacks and the fells surrounding Buttermere. Looking back in the other direction you can also see Catbells in the distance.
We dropped off the back side of Robinson, and began our climb back up to Hindscarth, deviating from the trail to make our way through the mostly soft snow. It took some time as the deep-in-places snow was energy sapping at best. As soon as we reached the plateau the wind had changed direction and was buffeting our path as we made our way to the summit.
We didn’t hang around as the wind seemed to be getting stronger, so we quickly made our way back from where we had come, and continued off the back side of Hindscarth. We stopped to check the time, and distance as the daylight would be dropping before too long. We had said we wanted to be below the snowline before it got dark.
The climb up to Dale Head was around 50-100m I think. We’d dropped down off Hindscarth and as we climbed upwards, we seemed to be getting hit by the wind again, which meant it had once again changed direction. It wasn’t an easy walk I wouldn’t say to get up and around the side of Dale Head. There were still patches of ground rather than Snow until we reached the summit anyway. Again, we hit the summit and then decided to make our way straight over the back of the peak.
There was no obvious sign of a path so we made our way down through the snow, and tried our best to avoid the few patches of ice. I failed on one occasion ending up with both feet on relatively wide patch of ice.
As we got to the top of the waterfall, the snow began to dissipate and more ground became visible as did the evident path up to the summit. So, this last section was quite steep, possibly the steepest bit of ascent/descent on this route and it’s for this reason that personally were I to do this loop again, I would do it the same way again.
The top of the waterfall was still only about a third of the way down. Something to note at this point was if you started early enough you could take in High Spy, Maiden Moor and Catbells if you wished to do so.
Otherwise you follow the route we did and drop down into the valley and back along the valley bottom. We managed without torches but it was dark when we reached the car again after a mile or so of trudge along the trail.
A really enjoyable walk, three more summits ticked off and Id hoped to get back up again in April but with the way things are who knows when I’ll be able to hit the hills again.
Three days in the Lake District
So I’m really, really behind on the adventures – well writing about them anyway, the adventures themselves were fantastic!!
So little time, so much travelling to do, you know how it is. And if you don’t well you very much should do, life is far too short not to be having adventures.
First of all I took advantage of my student discount and grabbed myself a years YHA membership. I then found myself a base at Glenridding, somewhat mistakenly booked the Helvellyn YHA as oppose to the Patterdale YHA, ah well.
Day 1
So on the Sunday I had decided I was going to do my first solo walk and after some map checking and route planning, followed by much twitter consultation with Lakeland regulars I opted for a circular route which would take me up and over the fells of High Seat and High Tove (Keswick/Derwent Water area).
The start of the route differs depending on where you park, however the route up and over Ashness Bridge takes you past the Surprise viewpoint, and criss crosses the river via well made bridges. It follows a trail through woodland and alongside farms before you arrive at Watendlath, and Watendlath Tarn.
There looks to be some very pleasant walking around the Tarn so I’ve added it to the list of spots to come back to. For now though I turned and began my ascent up the zig-zagging footpath towards High Tove. I was warned to expect it to be boggy between High Tove and High Seat, but in truth you’re going to be dodging boggy patches from about 100-150M from the summit, which is also the far side of the fence at the top. Again I’d expect the amount of water underfoot to change depending on recent weather – my tip, put your gators on!!
I reached the summit finally and it was quite satisfying to reach my first solo – but no time for champers I could see High Seat and it looked a relatively straight forward walk, fairly defined trail also. Oh how wrong I was, you see there was a fence to the left of my route, not a problem, but the trail which seemed a straight forward walk was waterlogged to put it mildly. Â The route take in the edge of the infamous Pewits, an area I can only describe as similar to the bog of eternal stench featured in Jim Henson’s Labyrinth!
At one point my boot and lower leg disappeared beneath the peat. Soul destroying! I had to find another way around, so I broke away from the trail and headed around to my right, attempting to pick away through the bog. I probably added another 30-40 minutes onto the crossing of what should have taken around an hour, maybe slightly more.
You’ll pass a stake on your right as the fence comes back towards you before continuing uptowards High Seat. This is Eddy Grave Stake, it’s pretty nondescript otherwise.
I continued onwards and upwards back alongside the fence by now, and you should just carry on to the top. Not the highest peaks, but I was really pleased to bag a couple of peaks solo, on my first day. Even more so given how challenging the crossing from High Tove to High Seat had been.
It had forecast rain so I was keen to get back down to the Valley bottom. I ready that someone had left money behind and specified that it must be spent on a better trail to getting down from High Seat back Ashness Bridge.
For the most part it’s been done, though there are still (at the time I walked the path) areas where there are some big puddles 🙂 for you to navigate. The best views are actually on this route back down to the valley. There are some steeper sections once you get off the top, I’m not sure I’d fancy walking up this way as some of them go on for quite a way. You’ll descend back into Ashness Bridge and from there it depends on where you have parked your car.
Day 2
I had wanted to walk the Ullswater Way for quite some time, it’s a relatively straight forward 23 or so mile loop of the lake. The thing is I didn’t just want to do a lake side walk though, I wanted very much to take in some of the fells around it – besides that’s where the best views are.
On the second day my buddy and one of my best friends Gary had joined me for a couple of days on the fells. Always good as, as a trained ML his map reading is marginally better than mine.
So we drove to a makeshift car park near Pooley Bridge, the bridge to the other side was out so we took the free shuttle driven by a distant relative of Damon Hill, to the other side – the long way round.
After the rollercoaster bus ride, we walked out of the village along High Street and towards Hill croft. This route will eventually see the road give way to trail as it steadily climbs away from the village. The rolling hills soon come in to view, and the lake in the distance also. The track climbs upwards towards a small cairn whereby the route intersects in a number of directions. We took a right and continued onwards. We crossed Elder Beck and then further along Aik Beck before turning upwards towards the first summit of the day Arthurs Pike.
We continued on towards Swarth Fell, and then went off the trail somewhat to take in Lords Seat too. The weather was fantastic and there were quite a lot of people out walking, even a number of paraglider’s on the tops.
Coming off the back of Swarth Fell we dropped back into the valley by a rather steep footpath which zig-zags downwards. In dry conditions this grassy path was fine, but wet or wintry conditions I’m not convinced I’d want to be descending this way.
We quickly made our way through the village of Howtown, one of the jump of points for the steamer and began making our way around Hallin fell. I’ve already plotted a couple of routes which take in Hallin Fell for next spring!
The path is littered with great views and wildlife, and this section you are walking on the Ullswater way. Ultimately you’ll come to the village of Sandwick, which is seemingly just a handful of houses, which gives way to the next stretch of the UW.
You’ll then follow the path, wide and uneven in places all the way until it follows the lake around Silver Crag. There is still a way to go until you reach the campsite on the right, but you will soon come to Side farm. from here you are only a short distance from Glenridding or the YHA in Patterdale. If like us however you are staying at the YHA at Helvellyn then you still have about a mile and a half to go.
Day 3
I was really tempted to rip up the plan of walking the other side of the Ullswater Way in favour of Striding Edge/Helvellyn/Swirral Edge. The weather was that good!
We left the hostel and set off up through the disused quarry aiming for the summit of Sheffield Pike. If the weather is good, and it was really good on this particular day you have impeccable views right down Ullswater, the surrounding fells, the hills of Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Catstycam, Helvellyn and many more.
After crossing Swart Beck at the top it’s almost a double back through some pretty wet peat and grass. You climb onwards away from Greenside/White Stones and onwards to the summit of Sheffield Pike. As already mentioned we had some pretty awesome weather, so although the breeze picked up the views to the other end of Ullswater and the fells we had walked the day before were incredible.
Now in hindsight I wish we’d stayed high up and taken in some more of the other summits. Instead we began our descent towards Aira Force with the plan to take the Steamer back to Glenridding.
On the OS Map you’ll see a Lead Map followed by Glencoyne Head as you descend the way you ascended Sheffield Pike. Below the former there is a marked footpath which makes for a pleasant walk around and has a number of waterfalls. As you follow the footpath around, the views back of Sheffield Pike are quite stunning.
The footpath splits into two further along, and somewhere along here is where we stopped for lunch. You should cross a couple of becks named after Swans and pass through a number of small wooded areas as you make your way back into the valley bottom. Eventually if you’re on the right path you’ll come to the A5091, cross this and you can take in Aira Force, which is always spectacular.
As I said we had planned to take the steamer back however with a 2hr wait, we opted for the riverside/woodland walk back to Glenridding. Pleasant if unspectacular – I prefer the views from the top if I’m honest. One thing which is always spectacular is the RAF dropping by to say hello!!
And that’s a wrap. So lessons learned. There are no decent sandwich shops in Glenridding, but there are in Pooley Bridge, so plan ahead. There are some incredible hills in the area and I’ve already begun plotting a few days up here next spring! On to the next adventure.
Wild Camping in the Lakes
It must be around 20 years since i’ve spent any time under a canvas, so apprehensively excited was about the only way I could describe the prospect of a couple of nights in a tent in July this year.
I’m definitely more of a hostel or a B&B kinda guy these days, preferring the comfort after a days walking.
We started out in the Village of Coniston, heading up the Old Man of Coniston, through the quarry which is a really interesting walk, and to be honest not massively challenging either. You’ll pass by waterfalls and a fast moving river, even more so if there’s been a lot of rain over recent days.
As we reached the summit it was obviously not going to be a glorious day, with incredible views. The wind was blowing a gale and you could barely see 50ft in front of you. The new Tog24 fleece was well tested and came in very handy.
We continued over the tops doing our best to stay on our feet before descending via Wet Side edge, crossing the road and making camp at the edge of Red Tarn.
The following day we ascended Pike Of Blisco, returning down the same path. Though it wasn’t quite as windy, the cloud made visibility and navigation at times difficult.
We climbed again to Great Knott, before crossing Crinkle Crags, and then North to Bowfell. Something which we had attempted in January about 18 months ago – without success. As we began our descent the clouds began to break and the sun came out.
We descended via Angle Tarn and the path into the Langdale valley below. The sun was relentless and after a few hours we reached the pub – where we’d agreed to stop for a drink before going to the campsite.
That night we camped at the National Trust campsite in the Langdale Valley, and witnessed a spectacular storm. The Old Dungeon Ghyll Pub serves good food, then again after two days in the hills a warm meal and no pack on your back are always going to be great.
The third day was a hike back out to the car, it was around six miles, but was heavy on the legs. The trail dropping down the Wrynose Pass and over the fields is well worth the walk though as it follows the river and a number of cascading waterfalls.
You’re then on an up and over couple of hills which drops you down onto the Main road coming from Ambleside into Coniston.
Planes, Trains, Ships and Automobiles 